Stem

Elastic Wool – A Collaboration Between HILO Textiles and Stem,
2023

In collaboration with Stem, we developed Elastic Wool, a natural elastic yarn created through overtwisting wool fibers. This technique, often seen as a flaw in the textile industry, was harnessed using the HILO Spinning Machine to achieve stretch without relying on synthetic fibers.

In the fashion industry, elasticity is often achieved through the use of synthetic materials like elastane and polyester. While these materials provide the necessary stretch for adaptable garments, they contribute to plastic waste and environmental pollution. The challenge was to achieve the same flexibility with wool, a natural and abundant material.

Traditionally, overtwisting wool fibers is considered a defect in textile production. However, we saw potential in this technique, harnessing the unique tension created by overtwisting to produce elasticity. By using our open-source HILO Spinning Machine, we experimented with our material engineering approach to develop Elastic Wool.

Elastic Wool became the key material in Sarah Brunnhuber’s zero-waste weaving system, allowing garments to adapt to different body shapes without alterations or additional materials. This approach reduces textile waste and ensures the garments are fully biodegradable, in line with circular economy principles.

Photos: Angela Djekic, Sarah Brunnhuber